INTRODUCTION:
Rouge is a cosmetics used to apply color to the cheeks. Rouge is used to simulate a natural glow and must look subtle. Modern rouge preparations come in the forms of liquid, cream and dry solids forms. Cream or gel rouge has better staying power, while powder rouge comes in larger variety of shades. Creams rouge tend to use humectants or silicones to deliver the colorants while gels, tints and stains are often water based. However, cream rouges are less natural looking and often more difficult to apply. In particular, tints and stains are not very blendable which can result in an “overdone” look. Cream rouges are usually sold in a small pot or stick and are quite thick, while gels, tints and stains are usually in a tube or bottle (almost like a nail polish bottle) and range from medium thickness to the consistency of water. Choice of rouge color depend on our complexion (light, medium, or dark) and secondly on the look that we want to achieve such as fresh or structured, natural or made-up. If you wish to add some freshness and a healthy glow to your face, choose a shade from the cool palette. Any kind of pink is a good choice for lighter complexions, while cool berries and plum shades will work for deeper skin tones. Cream rouges are great for women who have drier skin since the humectants provide a hydrating benefit.
Rouge or blusher has many functions which can be used separately or together. Firstly, rouge can be used to add shape to the face. It is achieved by applying a matte neutral shade of rouge like beige for example, directly underneath the cheek bone. By applying a thin band of rouge tucked directly under the cheek bone, you will create the illusion of depth directly under the bone and thus creating more shape to the face. Besides, rouge also can be used to soften the cheek bones. Cheek bones that are too obvious (often on very thin people or well- shaped faces), can be made to look less obvious by applying the rouge on top of the cheek bone area. Once you have added shape to your face or softened your cheek bone, you can add natural pink or peach shades to the front of the cheek area and this application adds color to the face. Adding color to the front of the cheek area creates a more healthy appearance on the skin. Rouge also can be used to add glow to the face.
Rouge or blusher has many functions which can be used separately or together. Firstly, rouge can be used to add shape to the face. It is achieved by applying a matte neutral shade of rouge like beige for example, directly underneath the cheek bone. By applying a thin band of rouge tucked directly under the cheek bone, you will create the illusion of depth directly under the bone and thus creating more shape to the face. Besides, rouge also can be used to soften the cheek bones. Cheek bones that are too obvious (often on very thin people or well- shaped faces), can be made to look less obvious by applying the rouge on top of the cheek bone area. Once you have added shape to your face or softened your cheek bone, you can add natural pink or peach shades to the front of the cheek area and this application adds color to the face. Adding color to the front of the cheek area creates a more healthy appearance on the skin. Rouge also can be used to add glow to the face.
OBJECTIVES:
- To formulate cream rouge.
- To formulate cream rouge from two commercial hard lipstick preparations.
- To study the factor affecting color shading in cream rouge.
- To evaluate the effect of storage condition on the final product.
APPARATUS:
Beaker, evaporating dish, spatula, dropper, thermometer, weighing boat, glass rod, filter paper and water bath.
INGREDIENTS:
Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colorant (erythrosine) and water as much as is sufficient
Beaker, evaporating dish, spatula, dropper, thermometer, weighing boat, glass rod, filter paper and water bath.
INGREDIENTS:
Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colorant (erythrosine) and water as much as is sufficient
PROCEDURES:
I.
Preparation
of cream rouge
- 80g of the basic cream formulation was prepared.
- 50g of a cream rouge was prepared by using 2% of soluble red coloring agent.
- 4 other cream rouge preparations was prepared by diluting the 2% cream rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of color.
- The suggested concentration of coloring agent: 0.125-2%
II.
Effects
of storage on the finished products
- The preparation was kept in the dark and also exposed to sunlight for two months.
- Criteria for evaluation of rouge preparation was set up.
FORMULATION:
BASIC
POWDER FORMULATION
|
80g
ofC0 (0%)
|
50g
of C2 (2%)
|
|
Cocoa
butter
|
5%
|
4.0g
|
2.5g
|
Beeswax
|
12%
|
9.6g
|
6.0g
|
Cetyl
alcohol
|
1%
|
0.8g
|
0.5g
|
Wool
fat
|
5%
|
4.0g
|
2.5g
|
Liquid
paraffin
|
30%
|
24.0g
|
15.0g
|
Borax
|
1%
|
0.8g
|
0.5g
|
Colorants
(Erythrosine)
|
2%
|
xxx
|
1.0g
|
Water
qs ad
|
100%
|
80g
|
50.0g
|
Table 1
Code
|
Colorant
(%)
|
Amount
of C2
|
Amount
of C0
|
Total
amount of rouge (g)
|
C1
|
2
|
20
|
-
|
20
|
C2
|
1
|
15
|
10
|
20
|
C3
|
0.5
|
10
|
15
|
20
|
C4
|
0.25
|
5
|
17.5
|
20
|
C5
|
0.125
|
2.5
|
18.75
|
20
|
Total
(g)
|
38.75
(~50)
|
47.5
(~80)
|
Table 2
RESULT:
Table 4: Cream rouge when exposed to sunlight
DISCUSSION:
In preparation of cream rouge, we need some important ingredients such as cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colorant (erythrosine) and water as much as is sufficient. Cocoa butter is oil extracted from cocoa beans, used as an emollient and with properties similar to those of other non-fragrant plant oils. Cocoa butter is a rich source of antioxidant polyphenols; in vitro research has shown it helps improve skin elasticity and promote healthy collagen production (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2008, pages 339–345). It is temporarily protects injured or exposed skin from harmful or annoying stimuli and may provide relief to the skin. Cocoa butter also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface. Beeswax and the plant waxes help to keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, especially in cosmetics and personal care products that require a creamy consistency. These waxes also increase the thickness of the lipid (oil) portion of solid and stick-like products, giving them structure, allowing for a smooth application, and keeping them solid. Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is either produced from the end products of the petroleum industry, or derived from plants (palm oil-palmityl alcohol). It comes in the form of a white, waxy solid. It works as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener and carrying agent for other ingredients contained in rouge formulation. It keeps the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating, and gives products good spreadability. As a thickening agent and surfactant, it helps alter the viscosity and increase the foaming capacity of non-aqueous and aqueous solutions. Wool fat (lanolin) resembles skin’s own sebum. It is highly emollient and an effective moisturiser. It is cushioning and protects the skin. Lanolin is an excellent moisturising ingredient for dry skin, as it emulsifies water on the skin and holds it there; its cushioning, plumping effect is noticeable. It is a perfect ingredient for barrier creams, baby lotions and eczema creams. It creates a protective film over the skin, allowing it to function and breathe naturally. Liquid paraffin, which is a mineral oil is excellent in forming thin layers with good barrier properties. It works by providing a layer of oil on the surface of the skin to prevent water evaporating from the skin surface. It helps to exfoliate the human skin and make it younger looking. It has a great moisturizing property. A thin layer of mineral oil will slow down the loss of moisture and rehydrate your skin very quickly. It has also been found to be very helpful as a protective layer for the skin. Borax or sodium borate, a white crystalline mineral generally used as an emulsifier or cleanser. Adding colorant into this formulation creates a more healthy appearance when applying onto the skin. Adding color to the face is very popular, it gives the face an immediate lift and healthy modern look.
Firstly, the cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, borax and wool fat were melted in liquid paraffin at about 60 degree Celsius in evaporating dish by using water bath according to the formulation for 80g of C0 (without colorant) cream rouge. After that, purified water, at about 60 degree Celsius was added into the molten mixture and the mixture was stirred gently until cool and smooth cream is formed. Step 1 and 2 were repeated for the preparation of 50g of C2 (with colorants) by adding 1g colorants. Then, 5 cream rouges were prepared according to the exact amount of C0 and C2 based on the table 2.
Table 3: Cream rouge without light
DISCUSSION:
In preparation of cream rouge, we need some important ingredients such as cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colorant (erythrosine) and water as much as is sufficient. Cocoa butter is oil extracted from cocoa beans, used as an emollient and with properties similar to those of other non-fragrant plant oils. Cocoa butter is a rich source of antioxidant polyphenols; in vitro research has shown it helps improve skin elasticity and promote healthy collagen production (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2008, pages 339–345). It is temporarily protects injured or exposed skin from harmful or annoying stimuli and may provide relief to the skin. Cocoa butter also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface. Beeswax and the plant waxes help to keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, especially in cosmetics and personal care products that require a creamy consistency. These waxes also increase the thickness of the lipid (oil) portion of solid and stick-like products, giving them structure, allowing for a smooth application, and keeping them solid. Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is either produced from the end products of the petroleum industry, or derived from plants (palm oil-palmityl alcohol). It comes in the form of a white, waxy solid. It works as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener and carrying agent for other ingredients contained in rouge formulation. It keeps the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating, and gives products good spreadability. As a thickening agent and surfactant, it helps alter the viscosity and increase the foaming capacity of non-aqueous and aqueous solutions. Wool fat (lanolin) resembles skin’s own sebum. It is highly emollient and an effective moisturiser. It is cushioning and protects the skin. Lanolin is an excellent moisturising ingredient for dry skin, as it emulsifies water on the skin and holds it there; its cushioning, plumping effect is noticeable. It is a perfect ingredient for barrier creams, baby lotions and eczema creams. It creates a protective film over the skin, allowing it to function and breathe naturally. Liquid paraffin, which is a mineral oil is excellent in forming thin layers with good barrier properties. It works by providing a layer of oil on the surface of the skin to prevent water evaporating from the skin surface. It helps to exfoliate the human skin and make it younger looking. It has a great moisturizing property. A thin layer of mineral oil will slow down the loss of moisture and rehydrate your skin very quickly. It has also been found to be very helpful as a protective layer for the skin. Borax or sodium borate, a white crystalline mineral generally used as an emulsifier or cleanser. Adding colorant into this formulation creates a more healthy appearance when applying onto the skin. Adding color to the face is very popular, it gives the face an immediate lift and healthy modern look.
Firstly, the cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, borax and wool fat were melted in liquid paraffin at about 60 degree Celsius in evaporating dish by using water bath according to the formulation for 80g of C0 (without colorant) cream rouge. After that, purified water, at about 60 degree Celsius was added into the molten mixture and the mixture was stirred gently until cool and smooth cream is formed. Step 1 and 2 were repeated for the preparation of 50g of C2 (with colorants) by adding 1g colorants. Then, 5 cream rouges were prepared according to the exact amount of C0 and C2 based on the table 2.
Cream rouge can be divided into two phases which are the oil
phase and water phase. The usual ingredients of oil phase in cream rouge are
cocoa butter, beeswax, wool fat and liquid paraffin. Meanwhile, the water phase
is usually the preservatives and colorants. From
the chart on the result above, we could know that the concentration of the
colorant is the one will determine the colour shadings of the cream rouge. In this rouge cream preparation, two creams
formulation are made up. C0 is the basic formulation of cream without addition
of colorant, but for C2 is the formulation
that has been added 2% of colorant of the total weight of the
formulation.Then, the cream with the 2% colorants is diluted with the basic
cream (C0) with specific proportion to produce 5 rouge creams with different
colour shading. The higher the
concentration of colorants in the formulation, the darker the colour of the
products. Therefore, it can be observed that the colour of the five cream
rouges produced are vary from each other and their colour are getting lighter
and lighter from C1 to C1.
CONCLUSION:
As a conclusion, the
concentration of colorants will determine the colour that is shown in cream
rouge . Higher concentration of colorant will produce darker colour. Storage
condition and also the sunlight may cause instability on the rouge products.
The steps that could be modified is increase the concentration of colorant
since the colour of the cream rouge is too light and does not give a strong
colour effect on the skin. Besides, storage condition test should be lengthened
to get more accurate results. The stability test
that the rouge is kept in the dark and also exposed to sun lights also
give unaccurate result due to amount of sunlight that the rouge exposed to can
vary day by day and pollution such as dust particles play a part in
variation.The test can be replaced by laboratory controlled tests because they
tend to be more reproducible as all conditions are finely controlled.
REFERENCES:
- http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/bcb/rouge.php
